IDIC 2010 celebrated: a world of Tagliatelle al Ragù
An irresistible worldwide ola of tagliatelle al ragù bolognese has been the protagonist of the 2010 International Day of Italian Cuisines (IDIC) celebrated on Sunday 17th January. Pictures and reports of the IDIC 2010 celebration will be soon on this website. In the map above you may find out in which establishments hundreds of chefs, in more than 50 countries, have simultaneously prepared this dish to say "no" to the forgery and counterfeiting of Italian products and cuisine around the world. Once again, the chefs of the GVCI (Virtual Group of Italian Cooks), a network of over a thousand professionals in Italian oenogastronomy who work all over the world, have lead and promote this global event. The last two IDIC celebrated first, Spaghetti alla Carbonara and then Risotto alla Milanese and these dishes were featured on the menus of over 400 restaurants.
“If there’s a dish that represents the worst worldwide forgery of Italian cooking, it has to be the so-called bolognaise,” says Mario Caramella, president del GVCI and executive chef of a large hotel, sporting an Italian restaurant, in Bali, Indonesia. “It’s prepared out of the most bizarre ingredients, often with overcooked spaghetti, sold in a can; stuff that has nothing to do with genuine original tagliatelle al ragù,” adds Caramella. Here you may find more about authentic tagliatelle al ragù, its history, curiosities and recipes (An Authentic Recipe by Mario Caramella and Other Classical Recipes)
“The International Day of Italian Cuisines is without a doubt a celebration of Italian flavours and culinary culture, and what’s more” explains Rosario Scarpato, food writer, GVCI Honorary President and director of itchefs-gvci.com; “it’s an initiative promoted by Italian chefs abroad who are the ones who maintain the identity of Italian cuisine on international markets. Without this identity, it would be very difficult to sell food products ‘made in Italy’ abroad”.
2010 IDIC: The Countdown Has Started
The International Day of Italian Cuisines (IDIC) will return on Sunday January 17, 2010. As in the past editions, it will be a worldwide celebration of authentic and quality Italian Cuisine, to defend it from bogus and counterfeiting. Hundreds of chefs and restaurateurs all around the world (see the list) will cook simultaneously on that day Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese, according to an authentic recipe (see recipe). As in the past the backbone of the global ola of Tagliatelle will be the GVCI associates in over 40 countries. But any Italian Food lover or any lover of just good food can join the ola, by just registering here. The 2010 IDIC will be launched in New York City for two days (13 and 14 January) of great events, hosted by Cesare Casella, Dean of the Italian Culinary Academy and itchefs-GVCI senior member. Talented chefs from all over the world – including 3 Michelin stared Chicco Cerea and Mario Batali - will gather in the Big Apple for a Media and Industry Preview of the worldwide Sunday January 17 celebration. In Europe, Stuttgart will be one of the main events of the International Day of Italian Cuisines, with a special celebration of Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese and the Sunday’s meal (Il pranzo della domenica), one of the most defining moments of Italian culinary traditions. Stuttgart based celebrity chef Sante De Santis, will host gifted chefs such as Marco Sacco (Piccolo Lago Verbania, Italy), Roland Schuller (The Drawing Room, Hong Kong) and Donato De Santis (Buenos Aires).
Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese, the official dish of the IDIC 2010
The dish of the next International Day of Italian Cuisines (IDIC) will be Tagliatelle al ragù alla bolognese. Hundreds of Italian chefs around the world will repeat on January 17th 2010 the ola of the last two years, when the dishes to be celebrated and protected were Carbonara and Risotto alla Milanese. Tagliatelle al ragù, originally and icon of the city of Bologna and its surroundings, is by now one of the most popular dishes of Italian Cuisine and therefore the most counterfeited around the world. “We want to let Italian food lovers all around the world know how to cook and enjoy a quality authentic tagliatelle al ragù which, in the majority of the cases, has nothing to do with the awful, wrongly called ‘bolognaise sauces’”, says Bali based GVCI’s President Mario Caramella. The International Day of Italian Cuisines is born out of the mission of both educating worldwide consumers to enjoy authentic and quality Italian cuisine and protecting their right to get what they pay for when going to eateries labelled as “Italian”. Organized by itchefs-gvci.com the International Day of Italian Cuisines promises to be an exciting and successful world wide event, as the last two editions were.
The International Day of Italian Cuisines: The Mission
Our annual appeal to Italian culinary professionals and lovers of Italian food, at whatever longitude and latitude they may be, is a tradition by now. Thousands of them will join itchefs-GVCI on next January 17th to celebrate authentic Italian cuisine and to protect it from forgery and counterfeiting. The International Day of Italian Cuisines is born from a mission: "we certainly aim at educating worldwide consumers, but more than anything else, we want to protect their right to get what they pay for when going to eateries labelled as "Italian", that is: authentic and quality Italian cuisine." says Rosario Scarpato, GVCI Honorary President.
Ragù alla Bolognese: authentic and evocative flavour of Italy
The real thing: Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese.
Spaghetti Bolognaise is just a forgery of Italian cuisine,
born outside Italy
‘Bolognaise’. How many gastronomic aberrations around the world have been committed in this name? No true food lover, let alone an Italian, could ever forget the rather disgusting pictures appearing on the labels of ‘spaghetti bolognaise’ tins, so omnipresent in Britain, in the US, in Canada, in Australia and elsewhere: a slice of industrial bread topped with a nest of mushy, overdone noodles, coated by a brownish tomato and minced meat sauce. Some have described the concoction as “cheap dog food sold for human consumption” appealing “way beyond those who don't like cooking, into the realm of those who don't like food at all.”
Bolognese sauce in a can:
a degraded version of the original
Misnamed food, offensive and in fact sacrilegious; there is nothing in Italian cuisine or in Bologna called ‘spaghetti bolognaise’; no pasta is served over bread, no one in Italy would eat it microwaved from a can. Those cans, regardless of the brand, are themselves the paradoxical impostor of another fake, which is actually the mother of all Italian cuisine forgeries: ‘spaghetti bolognaise’, known as ‘Spag Bol’ or ‘Spag Bog’. “It’s really sad that, so often, stewed mince with the addition of herbs and tomato purée gets presented as ‘bolognaise sauce’ even in lesser Italian restaurants;” wrote British cook and TV celebrity Delia Smith.
“The real thing –as she pointed out on other occasions– is in fact something else.” It is, instead, that masterpiece of gastronomy called Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese: the offspring of a region –Emilia Romagna– and a city –Bologna– that have some of the strongest and most flavourful culinary traditions in Italy. Not by chance, Pellegrino Artusi, one of the most important Italian gastronomes of the 19th and 20th centuries, wrote: “Bolognese cuisine well deserves a reverence,” perhaps also considering the great chefs of the past born in Bologna: Bartolomeo Stefani e Bartolomeo Scappi over all. The authentic ragù alla bolognese, the one that defines the city's identity, has nothing to do with canned Spag Bogs or with Spaghetti Bolognaise.
Piazza Maggiore, Bologna
Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese: the dictionary
What is important to know about Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese according some prestigious food writers and gastronomers:
National Recipe Books of Regional Cuisines issued by the
Italian Culinary Academy
Experts tend to credit the one registered by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina in 1982 as the most authentic one. It took 38 years of lengthy research and discussions among the members of the Academy and it includes the two basic components: fresh egg tagliatelle pasta and ragù. A traditional recipe of ragù, slightly different from the Academia’s one, is presented by Margherita e Valeria Simili, perhaps the most popular cooks in Bologna in the last 40 years, in their book, Sfida al matterello (Challenge for the Rolling Pin). The home-cooking style of the legendary Simili Sisters is part of the heritage of the peasant housewives of the past. The slight variations between some of the traditional recipes are to be considered physiological, given the characteristics of Italy, where within a few kilometres there may be relevant changes of customs and traditions. In addition, ragù was born in an area –Emilia– the capital of which is Bologna, but includes many other cities such as Imola, Modena, Parma, and a multitude of villages.
The beef used for the ragù is
finta cartella (flank brisket)
Cartella (thin skirt)
There is a whole school of thought for which beef is the only meat in ragù alla bolognese. The recipe copyrighted by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina includes only beef. Veteran chefs in Bologna, as Mauro Fabbri, of the traditional restaurant Diana, categorically exclude the use of pork (see "pork" in this same article). There was a specific beef (not veal) cut for ragù. In the recipe registered by the Accademia is the cartella (thin skirt), which is the muscle that separates the lungs from the stomach of the animal. It’s juicy, tender and has little fat. In reality, the meat commonly used if that of Finta Cartella (Pancia), flank brisket, which if rather fatty and requires long cooking. It is likely that originally the meat for ragù was cut into small pieces and not minced.
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano are optional, they are not included in the old recipe books, but both cheeses are commonly present on Italian tables.
CHICKEN LIVER (and other giblets)
The Simili sisters
“In the past, chicken giblets were included in ragù as well: heart, kidney and liver, ingredients with a strong flavour that are no longer liked by the modern palate; what a pity!. Of these ingredients only the liver has survived and, please, do not eliminate it. If you don’t like it, use less, just a half, but include it because in such a small quantity you will not detect it but it really fills out the flavour by giving it more body.” – quote from the entry “Il Ragù Bolognese” in the book Sfida al Matterello by Valeria and Margherita Simili. The inclusion of giblets should not be a surprise, since it was also common in French ragouts as in the financière.
Traditional ragù alla bolognese was cooked slowly for hours, four on average and up to five o six. According to Marcela Hazan (The Classic Italian Cookbook), “the longer, the better.” There was at least one reason for this long cooking: the meat was very tough, usually from aged animals, not seldom, from ten-year-old cows, having worked in the fields and sacrificed when they could work no more. Today, the quality of the meat is much better, so between two and three hours is the right cooking time. The peasant housewives used to put the ragù on the woodstove and then to go to work in the fields. Furthermore, in Italy, in the past, extended families were common and the giant pot of sauce to feed them required hours and hours of simmering to cook all the way through.
HERBS (spices, garlic)
There are no herbs, no bay leaf, no parsley, no thyme, in the traditional ragù alla bolognese, nor is there garlic, in fact in the whole cuisine of Emilia Romagna the use of garlic is very scant. There is no chilli, nor were there any spices. Some recipes call for the use of a little nutmeg.
MILK (AND CREAM)
All the traditional recipes contain milk, including the one given by Anna Gosetti della Salda, in her first edition of Le ricette regionali italiane in 1967. Meat was tough in the past and milk breaks down its fibres. Furthermore, milk was widely available in the agricultural families of Emilia, while tomatoes were not (see "tomatoes" in this same article). Chef Giuliano Tassinari, GVCI associate and Emilia Romagna cuisine ambassador remembers that Bruno Tasselli, who, for 54 years, was the chef at "Pappagallo", the most renowned restaurant in Bologna during the last century, always added milk to his ragù. “The old-time chefs used the ‘pannetta’, the cream that topped the milk, after being boiled, to give the ragù a touch of sweetness,” says Giuliano, who worked with Tasselli in the Seventies of last century.
Marcela Hazan, in her Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, recommends adding and cooking down the wine before doing the same with the milk. There were areas in Emilia Romagna, as Ferrara, where milk was not used also for religious reasons: many Jews were established in the city and its surrounding and mixing meat with milk is not kosher. Some time ago, an American food writer wrote that “Artusi (Pellegrino, the author of The Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well) suggests that you may want to stir half a cup of whipping cream into the ragù just before you pour it over the pasta.” This is wrong, Artusi did not include Tagliatelle al ragù bolognese in his recipe book but rather Maccheroni alla bolognese, made with dried pasta and a sauce having only some resemblance to the classic ragù (and which didn’t contain tomatoes at all).
The origins of ragù alla bolognese are unclear. Some authors, including Lynne Rossetto Kasper, the author of The Italian Country Table, “traced the ragus of Emilia-Romagna at least as far back as the 16th century, to the wealthy courts of noble families.” This explains also the reason for which ragù is not a tomato based sauce. Tomatoes were not known and, therefore, not used in Italy in the 16th century. Indeed the origins of the Bolognese ragù are related to those of the French ragoût, a stew of ingredients reduced to small pieces, which became popular in the 18th century (see "ragù" in this same article).
Pancetta (called also ‘carnesecca’ in the past) was probably the only fat that was used for starting the cooking of ragù. Butter was probably added at a later stage, and perhaps for this reason it is not included in the recipe registered by the Academia Italiana della Cucina. Olive oil is an even more recent and rather improper addition found particularly outside of Italy.
Pork is likely to be another relatively recent addition to ragù alla bolognese. As we have seen, for many authors, beef (see "beef" in this same article) was the only meat of the recipe. This is socially and historically grounded; up to the end of World War II, Italy was an agricultural and generally poor country. Many people used to see meat on their tables only at Christmas and Easter; the luckiest ate it on Sundays or on religious feasts. They would hardly have used pork and beef at the same time. More likely, pork was introduced to rich families or to festive cooking. Emilia has historically been an area that consumes huge quantities of pork, in the form of salami, prosciutto, culatello, mortadella, pancetta, zampone etc. Fresh minced pork meat, handled as in the “new” recipe for ragù alla bolognese, was rare in the past. It’s interesting that in some recipe books veal is presented as an alternative to pork.
The word comes from the French ‘ragôut’, a noun derived from the verb ragoûter, which means to wake up or better to wet the appetite, to revive the taste, to give more taste. Ragôut is a hearty stew including one or more principal ingredients (meat, fish, game, vegetables), cut into small pieces and cooked very slowly in some fat over low heat. In the past ragouts were cooked over the fire or on a closed woodstove and very much sought after in rich families. “Somewhere along the line, the French stew became the Italian sauce, and the rich families’ meat-heavy banquet food became the peasant's method of extracting every last bit of flavour from scarce meat scraps.” Another famous ragù in Italian cuisine is ragù alla napoletana, which is based on meat and tomato sauce. In Italian cuisine ragù is in any case considered a festive, celebratory, dish.
‘Tagliatelle’ simply means cut pasta and are long flat ribbons made from the ‘sfoglia’ or ‘leaves’, of egg-and-flour dough. They belong to the family of fresh pastas that includes fettuccine, tagliolini, pappardelle, lasagne, tortellini etc, which are an important part of the culinary traditions of Northern Italy and particularly the Region of Emilia Romagna. True tagliatelle are 8mm wide (according to the Bologna-based Apostles of Tagliatelle) and cooked should be wider than the 2270th part of the famous Asinelli Tower in Bologna. In the 14th century tagliatelle already appear in a pictorial representation of the Tacuinum Sanitatis, which was an 11th century health manual. Something very similar to tagliatelle (fermentini) is also described in the Compendium de naturis et proprietatibus alimentorum, a list of foods from Emilia compiled in 1338 by Barnaba de Ritinis da Reggio di Modena.
An image from the Tacuinum Sanitatis
According to the legend, tagliatelle were invented in 1487 by Maestro Zafirano, a cook from the village of Bentivoglio, on the occasion of the marriage of Lucrezia Borgia to the Duke of Ferrara. One of the most important figures of the Emilian cuisine is the so called sfoglina, the woman who prepared the dough (sfoglia) and cut tagliatelle as well as fettuccine, lasagne, tortellini and other home made fresh pasta. In old restaurants sfognine worked in the shop-window so that people walking along the streets could see them.
The presence of tomato in ragù alla bolognese should be very limited. There is a general concurrence that ragù was born as a meat sauce (or ‘sugo’), as its close relative, the sauce that Pellegrino Artusi describes in his Maccheroni alla bolognese recipe, in which there is no tomato at all. 20 grams of triple concentrated tomato paste –the equivalent of 5 spoons of tomato sauce– for 300 grams of beef and 150 grams of pancetta is the proportion endorsed by the Accademia in its recipe.
TERRA COTTA (OR ‘COCCIO’)
"His Majesty Ragù must be treated with extreme care. Some time ago, he was prepared in terra cotta pots that were broad and rather low and were placed on top of the embers. The ‘coccio’ and the strong and homogeneous heat of the embers ensured that the meat was ‘rosolato’ or sautéed without it loosing its juices and thus remained tasty and tender. Therefore, in order to reproduce this excellent ‘rosolatura’ or sautéing, we start our ragù in a pot and then transfer it to a terra cotta pot so that it achieves its necessary ‘rosolatura’.” – quote from the entry “Il Ragù Bolognese” in the book Sfida al Matterello by Valeria and Margherita Simili.
Spaghetti Bolognaise, not the “real thing” but it can be good
Spaghetti Bolognaise with garlic bread:
Italians don’t eat that way
It’s the most beloved dish of the Britons; according to the statistics, they eat up to 670 million portions a year. Americans love it, Swedes go crazy about och köttfärssås, Danes about the similarly named og kødsovs and in Tokyo it’s sold even (and sadly) in sandwiches. For the Chinese they are the Western shajiang mian, a traditional dish that is topped with meat. We are talking about Spaghetti Bolognaise o Bolognese that recently has been voted the favourite meal of the Australians, who don’t hesitate to make it with Vegemite beside hips of canned tomatoes PLUS tomato paste, as well as capsicums and mushrooms. Known as spag bol or spag bog (in the UK) it sounds very Italian, and people make it with Italian ingredients, or with those they perceive as such, regardless of quality (plenty of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, canned peeled tomatoes, and ugly “parmesan”). Then they add whatever it comes at their hands: anchovies, peas, vegetable, all sorts of cheeses and serve often with garlic bread and even eggs. “You can put anything you have in it and it tastes a treat!”, wrote an enthusiastic pseudo foody blogger. It’s not true, but the magic seems to work.
Spaghetti Bolognaise, Italians
do not serve pasta in that way
Back in Italy purists say that Spaghetti Bolognese has nothing to do with the Italian culinary culture. Some time ago, Stefano Bonilli, a renowned Italian gastronomer, who was born in Bologna, wrote: “Spaghetti alla bolognese never existed.” The line of attack? “Spaghetti is dry pasta from Southern Italy, in Bologna, we have tagliatelle, freshly homemade, al ragù bolognese”. The fact is that at least one other ‘sugo’ (sauce) 'alla bolognese' exists and is the one described by Pellegrino Artusi in his The Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well. Not only is Artusi’s ‘bolognese’ not ragù, but the recipe includes maccheroni (macaroni), which are dry pasta, exactly as “Southern” spaghetti are. So, can we say that Spaghetti Bolognese come from that recipe? No way. Artusi doesn’t include tomatoes in his sugo, while Spag Bog is a sauce made with tomatoes (as we have seen, the presence of tomatoes is very limited in the original ragù alla bolognese). So, where does Spaghetti Bolognese come from? It’s hard to say.
American soldiers in Italy
Some think that all happened during War World II, when American (and British) soldiers passing through Emilia, ate tagliatelle al ragù and liked them. Back home, they asked for the dish and unscrupulous Italian restaurateurs created the Frankenstein dish we know today, with spaghetti. There’s no evidence but the story could well be true. When American and British came back to Italy as tourists they asked for their beloved Spaghetti Bolognese and Italian restaurateurs gave it to them. Spaghetti Bolognaise is not ragù alla Bolognese; its image is really bad, because it's wildly commercially exploited, even sold in cans and ready to be microwaved. However, if correctly prepared, they can be a pleasant dish and can even be considered an offspring of Italian culinary culture.
But on one condition though: that Italian ingredients of quality are used, for instance, canned peeled tomatoes, pasta, grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, extra virgin olive oil. In that case, they deserve to carry the name Spaghetti Bolognese. When Worcestershire sauce or nam pla are added, then it’s another story, no matter if the name of the chef preparing them is Heston Blumental or Wolfgang Puck. (Recently an association called “Balla degli Spaghetti Bolognese” was born in Bologna; its members want the city to take advantage of the huge popularity that the dish has given to it...).
Tagliatelle with Bolognese ragù sauce, Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese: An authentic recipe by Mario Caramella, GVCI President
In Italy, there are several traditional recipes of Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese with more or less slight variations and far too many individual interpretations of it. This recipe has been tailored mainly for all those non Italian chefs who aim at serving this traditional Italian dish abroad in a correct and professional way. The recipe however may be useful also to the many Italian chefs in Italy, as well as abroad, who are just as confused about it. It takes into account the basics of the various streams of the Italian tradition as well as the experience of many talented chefs, including many GVCI associates. I hope it will give you a clear direction and help you achieve a good result.
Ingredients per person
100 gm dry, egg dough tagliatelle
200 gm Bolognese ragù (see recipe ahead)
Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese freshly grated
- Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, strain when al dente, and place it in a hot pasta bowl or plate
- Bring the sauce to boil and if too thick add little water from the pasta
- Spoon the hot sauce over the steaming and fragrant tagliatelle and serve with the freshly grated cheese on the side
- Put a spoon and a fork so the guests can mix their own pasta and put the right amount of grated cheese. This is the real and better way to enjoy this dish. The alternative is to sauté the pasta and the sauce in the kitchen and then serve it.
- Do not decorate with basil leaves or chopped parsley, or even more gross with garlic bread on the side
* * *
Bolognese ragù sauce
To achieve a great result, this sauce should be made fresh every morning and be served within a few hours or the same day
Ingredients for 2 kg (approx) of Bolognese Ragù
600gm coarsely ground lean beef
400gm coarsely ground lean pork
200gm pancetta diced or chopped
100gm chopped onion
100gm carrot diced
100gm celery diced
1kg tomato peeled (canned)
300ml dry white wine
500ml fresh milk
3 pc bay leaves
Black pepper and salt to taste
- Place the pancetta in a thick base large stainless steal saucepot (cm30x20) stir and cook over low flame until the fat is melted, add the onion and keep stirring until the onion is translucent
- Add the carrot and celery and the bay leaves and keep cooking until the vegetables start to soften and get some colour,
- Raise the flame to very high and add the ground meats, previously mixed and seasoned with salt and black pepper and mixed well, by hand ( wearing gloves!)
- Keep cooking and stirring with a wooden spoon until the meat is well done
- Pour in the white wine and keep cooking until the wine has evaporated
- Process briefly the peeled tomatoes in the food mill and add to the pot and continue cooking slowly over a low flame for at least 2 hours, if it becomes too dry add some beef stock
- Add some milk and some chicken stock, stir and leave to slow boiling at low flame
- Keep going with the milk and the stock for 60 minutes at low flame
- Season to taste and leave to rest
The traditional pasta that goes with Bolognese sauce are the tagliatelle, serving spaghetti with Bolognese sauce is actually a sign of mediocrity in the understanding of Italian cuisine
* * *
For the dough
1 kg pasta flour
8 whole fresh eggs
- Mix the flour and the eggs by hand or in the planetary mixing machine
- Cover and leave the dough to rest in a cool place for 2 hours
- Roll out the dough, with a rolling pin if you have the know-how, or use the pasta machine, cut the tagliatelle with a knife or by using a proper cutter
- Arrange in a traditional nest shape and leave to dry
If you do not have the right flour, the know-how, the right environment, do not make your own pasta!!! You’d better use an Italian industrial product, which is actually good and will give you good results and a consistent standard. Please do not pre-cook the pasta and do keep it always al dente!!! so many times we read on menus the very proud statement , “home made pasta” and than we are served mediocre, broken, overcooked and tasteless pasta, made with the wrong flour and dried in the wrong environment; generally the result of hard exercise that should have been avoided. Also, avoid those fresh, locally made, gourmet pasta products that are usually very average and made by incompetents!
Other classical recipes
The Ragù according to the Simili Sisters
Margherita and Valeria Simili, generally known as the Simili Sisters, began working in a family baking business in Bologna in 1946. “More than a business, the bakery that the Simili Sisters ran in Via San Felice and then in Via Frassinago was a meeting point for all of Bologna’s gourmets,” wrote Stefano Bonilli, the Bolognese-born director and founder of the famous Italian magazine Gambero Rosso.
In 1986 Margherita and Valeria Simili started to teach cooking courses at the Hotel Milano Excelsior di Bologna and three years later they opened the Scuola di Cucina delle Sorelle Simili – the Simili Sisters’ School of Cooking that became famous around the world and was closed in the summer of 2001.
The Simili Sisters published two noteworthy books in Italian, Pane e roba dolce – Bread and Sweet Things and Sfida al mattarello – Challenge for the Rolling Pin, subtitled I segreti della sfoglia bolognese – The Secrets of Bolognese Puff Pastry in 2005.
Their third book, La buona cucina di casa – Good Home Cooking, has recently come out.
RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE
25 g butter
50 g pancetta or prosciutto di Parma, chopped
500 g beef, ground (scanello or cartella)
500 g tomatoes, peeled and pureed
2 spoons of onion, chopped
2 spoons of celery, chopped
2 spoons carrot, chopped
1 chicken liver, chopped
1/ cup white wine, dry
2 cups milk
2 cups of broth
Salt, pepper, a hint of nutmeg, 2 spoons oil
- Chop the vegetables separately.
- Chop the pancetta.
- Prepare the chicken liver. Clean it well. Be sure to remove the slightest trace of green bile, because if not the chicken liver will be very bitter. Don’t chop it but rather crush it with the blade of a knife and separate the nerve fibres from the pieces of flesh and, once done completely, chop the pieces with a knife alone. This should be carried out with care, because if nerve fibres stay attached to the liver, it will not amalgamate well with the other ingredients and so its flavour will be too strong.
- Have the wine within reach.
- Have the milk close to the stovetop.
- Place the tomato and broth in a saucepan on a low flame.
- Place the butter and the oil in the pan, then immediately add the onion.
- Sauté the onion slowly, stirring continuously.
- At first the fats become milky and the aroma very harsh due to the presence of the vegetable effluents of the onion.
- As soon as this temperament has been absorbed, the fats will once again clarify and the aroma sweeten. At this point, and not a moment before, add the celery and a minute later the carrot. If the three vegetables were sautéed together, the other two would absorb the juice of the onion, the flavour of which is so intense that it would hide the more delicate flavours of the celery and the carrot thus turning the three into onion.
- As soon as this base is ready, add the pancetta and let it sauté a minute.
- So now it’s the chicken liver’s turn. Free the centre of the pan by moving all the vegetables to the edge. Chicken liver coagulates immediately and it would cling to any ingredient in its vicinity and impart its flavour to it, which would become too intense. Therefore, place the chicken liver in the middle of the pan alone, continuously flattening and stirring it until it completely changes colour, which shows that it has cooked. Then and only then, bring the vegetables back to the middle of the pan and stir everything together for a moment.
- And next, the beef – a delicate moment. In order to avoid turning the beef into, for all intents and purposes, broth, a few seconds after having added the other ingredients, proceed in the following manner: bring the flame to the maximum and after a moment add a third of the beef by flaking it into the pan, then with a wooden spatula, flattening and turning it over continuously while leaving the bottom of the pan partially uncovered in order that the moisture that forms will evaporate rather than turn into liquid. As soon as this part of the beef has changed its colour partially, free the middle of the pan again and add, flake and mix another third of the beef as with the first third and then, once again in the middle, add the last third.
- Once all the beef is sautéed, add a first part of the wine, not by pouring it onto the beef but rather around the edge of the pan because cold ingredients should not be poured upon the bubbling hot beef. This way, when the wine arrives to the beef, it will certainly already be heated. Don’t pour in all the wine in one dose; let it evaporate over two or three doses. The wine will have completely evaporated, not when you see it disappear as liquid from the pan but rather when you can’t detect its aroma any more.
- At this point add the hot milk in two or three doses and let it be absorbed until it has formed a nice cream.
- Pepper and salt.
- Transfer the concoction to a smaller and higher pot in order to avoid that it evaporates too quickly while cooking.
- Add the hot tomato and broth; adjust the flame to hold the ragù at a simmer for around two hours while stirring often.
The Classic Bolognese Ragù according the Accademia Italiana della Cucina
With a solemn decree of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina – the Italian Academy of Cuisine, the present was notarized and deposited in the Palazzo della Mercanzia, the Chamber of Commerce of the City of Bologna on the 17th of October 1982.
300 gr. beef cartella (thin skirt)
150 gr. pancetta, dried
50 gr. carrot
50 gr. celery stalk
50 gr. onion
5 spoons tomato sauce or 20 gr. triple tomato extract
1 cup whole milk
Half cup white or red wine, dry and not frizzante
Salt and pepper, to taste.
The pancetta, cut into little cubes and chopped with a mezzaluna chopping knife, is melted in a saucepan; the vegetables, once again well chopped with the mezzaluna, are then added and everything is left to stew softly. Next the ground beef is added and is left on the stovetop, while being stirred constantly, until it sputters. The wine and the tomato cut with a little broth are added and everything left to simmer for around two hours, adding little by little the milk and adjusting the salt and black pepper. Optional but advisable is the addition of the panna di cottura of a litre of whole milk at the end of the cooking.
The list: chefs, restaurants and institutions joining and supporting IDIC 2010
The number of chefs and restaurants joining our International Day of Italian Cuisines celebration grows larger every year. We will be updating this list as chefs, restaurants, institutions get on board our global ola that will reach its peak on January 17th 2010 when all around the globe people will be cooking and tasting the real Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese.
reference: (*) chefs, restaurants and institutions joining itchefs-GVCI members in the celebration of the IDIC 2010
Donato de Santis, Bruni Restaurant, Buenos Aires
Sebastian Rivas Proia, Amici Miei Ristorante, Buenos Aires
Adrian Soldano, Capo Restaurant, Buenos Aires
Fabio Boschero, Hilton São Paulo Morumbi, São Paulo
Francesco Carli, Hotel Copacabana Palace, Rio de Janeiro
Nicola Finamore, Hotel Cipriani Restaurant- Copacabana Palace Hotel, Rio de Janeiro
Francesco Mammola, Ristorante Toscanelli- Sagu Mini Resort, Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro
Luigi Pasculli, Teatro Fellini Restaurant, Arraial D´Ajuda
Elena Ruocco, Sitio do Moinho Organic Farm, Rio de Janeiro
Gabriele Paganelli, Romagna Mia Restaurant, Toronto
Gianni Poggio, Da Gianni & Maria Trattoria, Toronto
Claudio Rossi, Studio Cafe- Four Seasons Hotel, Toronto
Gianpiero Tondina, Copper Creek Golf Club, Kleinburg
Ignazio Podda, Unique Villas of the Caribbean, JAMAICA
Antonio Tardi, Italian Village Beaches, TURKS AND CAICOS
Roberto Illari, Bel Paese Restaurant, Santiago de Chile
Walter Monticelli, Caprese Restaurant, Santiago de Chile
Luigi Passano, Riviera Restaurant, Guayaquil
Hotel Vista Real, Guatemala City
Silvia Bernardini, L'Invito Restaurant, Veracruz
Walter El Nagar, Nonna Rosa Pasta Factory, San Miguel de Allende
Umberto Fregoni, Ristorante Cabiria, Mexico City
Gastronomia Gusto Di Vino, Mexico City
Antonio Lotito, La Pasta Restaurant, Zapopan, Jalisco
Alessandro Mancuso, Maravia Resort, La Paz, Baja California
• PUERTO RICO
Alberto Gianati, Casa Italia Restaurant, San Juan de Puerto Rico
• UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Carlo Allesina, Cibus Restaurant, Dallas
Gaetano Ascione, Ristorante Gaetano, Miami
Enrico Bazzoni, Culinary Liaisons, New York
Ivan Beacco, Testaccio Restaurant, New York
Matteo Boglione, Gradisca Restaurant, New York
Lorenzo Boni, Barilla USA Corporate Chef, Chicago
Paola Bottero, Paola´s Restaurant, New York
Fabio Cappuccini, Bella Gioia Milano Restaurant, Portaland
Cesare Casella, Italian Culinary Academy, New York
Mario Cassineri, Bice Restaurant, San Diego
Andrea Cavaliere, Cecconis Restaurant, West Hollywood
Luca Cesarini, Private Party, Los Angeles
Vincent Chirico, Vai Restaurant, New York
Anthony Daniele, Mario´s Italian Steakhouse & Catering & Bazil, NY
Chris DeLuna, Naples 45 Restaurant, New York
Luca Di Pietro, Tarallucci & Vino Restaurant, NY
Etcetera Etcetera Restaurant, New York
Odette Fada, SD26 Restaurant, New York
Francesco Farris, guest Chef Avanti Restaurant, Dallas
Rossano Giannini, Lanterna Tuscan Bistro, Nyack
Salvatore Gisellu, Urban Crust Restaurant, Plano Texas *
Tony Guglielmelli, Panevino Restaurant, New York
Patti Jackson, I trulli Restaurant, New York
Cesare Lanfranconi, Spezie Restaurant, Washington
Michele Lomonaco, Porterhouse Restaurant, New York
Egidiana & Sirio Maccioni, Osteria del Circo, NY
Aldo Martinelli, Fancy Food Show, San Francisco
Deborah Mele, www.italianfoodforever.com, New York
Jon Mudder, Bellavitae Restaurant, New York
Max Taxiera, Beppe Restaurant, NY
Fabio Trabocchi, Four Seasons Restaurant, New York
Viceversa Restaurant, new York
Agostino Suriano, Villa Logoreci Restaurant, Tirana
Maurizio Mosconi, Italy & Italy Restaurant, Ringsted
, Trattoria Alloro
, Ieper, West Flanders
Giorgio de Chirico, Findi Restaurant, Paris
Giulio Freschi, chef at the Italian Embassy, Paris
Roberta Tringale, Casa Vigata Restaurant, Paris
Sante de Santis (and Roland Schuller *)
, Er Cuppolone-San Pietro Gastro Restaurant
Luigi Favorito, Casa Donato Restaurant, Heraklion, Crete
Angelo Saracini, Athens
Andrea Alfieri, Sempione 42 Restaurant, Milano
Miriano Baldacci & Monica Debinska, 7 Archi Restaurant, Bologna
Davide Barbuzza, Antica Osteria Bottega, Bologna *
Fabrizio Barontini, Il Gallo Rosso Restaurant, Iseo (Brescia)
Giorgio Broggini, Osteria di Porta Cicca, Milano
Nicola Cavallaro, Al San Cristoforo Restaurant, Milano
Claudio Ceriotti, Il Maragasc Restaurant, Legnano (MI)
Andrea Cristofoletto, EAT Restaurant in Hollywood & Bollywood, S. Benedetto del Tronto
Marco Epifani & Dall´Argine Family, Trattoria del Cacciatore, Frassinara (PARMA)
Mauro Fabbri, Diana Restaurant, Bologna *
Angelo Franchini, Torre del Monte Relais, Todi
Matteo Francini, Motel Europa Restaurant, Domodossola
Giacomo Gallina, Dolce & Gabbana Gold Restaurant and Magic Bar, Milano
Giovanni Grasso & Igor Macchia, La Credenza Restaurant, San Maurizio Canavese, Torino
Gianfelice Guerrini, Chef Ferrari F.1 Team, Maranello
Lady Chef Agostina, La Bucaccia Restaurant, Cortona (Arezzo)
Emanuele Lattanzi, Petito Restaurant, Forlì
Franco Luise, Aromi Restaurant - Hilton Molino Stucky, Venice
Luciano Lombardi, Osteria Vigna del Mar, Monopoli (Ba)
Samuele Lué, Ami_Bar Restaurant Lounge, Milano
Maria Luisa Maser, Ristorante Ca´Maser, Brianzé (Vicenza)
Paolo Montiglio and the students of the IPSAR, Arona (Novara)
Mario Musoni, Ristorante Al Pino, Montescano (PV)
Massimiliano Telloli, Ristorante Stallo del Pomodoro, Modena
Fabio Peiti, Hotel Lac Salin SPA and Mountain Resort, Livigno
Andrea Pini, L´Ustareja di Du Butò Restaurant, Solarolo (RA)
Fabio Pisani & Alessandro Negrini, Il Luogo Di Aimo e Nadia Restaurant, Milano
Pasquale Porcelli, Fornello da Ricci, Ceglie Messapica (Brindisi)
Anna Prandoni, La cucina Italiana online, Milano *
Piero Pulli, Canonico Restaurant, Carignano Torino
Leonardo Russi, NUVò Restaurant, Milano
Marco Rocco, Ristorante Leggero, Turbigo (Milano)
Natalino Sabato, Ristorante Decò, Arquata Scrivia (AL)
Caludio Sadler, Chic´n Quick Trattoria Moderna, Milano
Claudio Santin, Ristorante Vieux Braconnier, Breuil Cervinia (AO)
Gisberto Tamburini, Trattoria Boboli, Firenze
, M.Y. SAI RAM
Fabio Cappellano, Il Tartufo Restaurant, Delft
Peppe Cappellano, La Vita è Bella Restaurant, Rotterdam
Saro Pulvirenti, That’s Amore Restaurant, Den Haag
Ezequiel Barbuto, Piccolino Restaurant, Moscow
Gusto- Mediterranean Restaurant, Ekaterinburg
Pietro Rongoni, La Serenata Restaurant, Moscow
Francesco Spampinato, Sky Café - Italian Lounge Restaurant, Ekaterinburg
Antonio Voci, Il Borsalino Restaurant, Saint Petersburg
, Don Giovanni Restaurante
, Madrid (5) Enrica Barni & Angie Musci
, Accademia del Gusto
, La Tavola Restaurant
Daniel Evangelista, Ramada Palace Hotel, Ankara
Antonio Lombardi, Mezzaluna Restaurant, Istanbul
Giuseppe Pressani, Paper Moon Milano Restaurant, Istanbul
Vincenzo Guglielmi, Swiss Inn Dream Resort, Taba
Michelle Martinelli, Private Chef, Cairo
Giacomo Turzo, Domina Coral Bay Hotel Resort Spa & Casino, Sharm el Sheikh
Stefano Fontanesi and Chef Vijay Ittoo
, Harmonie Restaurant
- Dinarobin Hotel, Le Morne
• SAUDI ARABIA
Roberto Collini, Roberto's Restaurant, Khobar
Emanuele Esposito, Il Villaggio Complex, Jeddah-KSA
• SOUTH AFRICA
, Carne SA and 95 Keroom Restaurants
, Cape TownStefano Strafella
, Strafella´s Restaurant
, Johannesburg *Tony Rose
, Tony´s Spaghetti Grill
, Il Faro Restaurant
• UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Massimo Falsini, Ferrari World, Yas Island Abu Dhabi
Marco Legittimo, Mezzaluna Restaurant- Intercontinental, Dubai
Thomas Marchi, Filini Bar & Restaurant - Radisson Blu Hotel, Island Abu Dhabi
Giancarlo Biacchessi, Biscotti Restaurant- Sofitel Silver Plaza Hotel, Jinan
Armando Capochiani, Venexia Restaurant, Shanghai
Roberto Cimmino, Avanti Restaurant- Pan Pacific Hotel, Suzhou
Marino D'Antonio, Sureno Restaurant, Beijing
Armando Galantucci, Isola Bella Restaurant, Shanghai
Simonetta Garelli, Giovanni´s- Sheraton Hongqiao, Shanghai
Stefano de Geronimo, Prego Restaurant, Shanghai
Valter Gosatti, Rose Restaurant - Furama Hotel, Dalian
Marco Maggio, Prego Restaurant- Crowne Plaza Hotel & Suites Landmark, Shenzhen
Corrado Michelazzo, VaBene Restaurant, Xintiandi, Shanghai
Roberto Molinari, Rosso Italiano Restaurant, Shanghai
Stefano Pace, Acqua Restaurant- Gran Melia Hotel, Shanghai
Giovanni Parrella, Grand Hyatt, Beijing
Domenico Patruno, Alla Torre Restaurant, Shanghai
Vincenzo Pezzilli, Agrilandia Organic Farm and Casale Restaurant, Beijing
Antonio Puccini, Amore Italian Restaurant, Ningbo- Zhejiang
Samuele Rossi, Rossio Restaurant, MGM Grand Macau, Macau
Ilario Turri, Capri Restaurant at the Sheraton Dameisha Resort
Jennifer Prescott, Riviera Restaurant, Dalian *
• HONG KONG
Andrea Assenza, Habitu Restaurant at the Garden
Michele Camolei, Osteria Restaurant - Holiday Inn
Gianni Caprioli, Isola Restaurant, Hong Kong
Claudio Dieli, Mistral Restaurant - Intercontinental Grand Stanford
Sandro Falbo, Nicholini´s Restaurant - Conrad Hotel
Marco Furlan, Habitu The Pier Restaurant
Vittorio Lucariello, Angelini Restaurant - Shangri-la Hotel
Marco Medaglia, Aqua Restaurant, Hong Kong
Paolo Monti, Gaia Restaurant, Hong Kong
Luca Signoretti, Sabatini Restaurant
Marco Torre, Grissini Restaurant, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Hong Kong
David Bassan, Aloro Restaurant at the Oterra Hotel, Bangalore
Enrico Luise, Renaissance Restaurant - Marriott Hotel, Mumbai
Alessandro de Boni, Il Mare Restaurant - Mulia Hotel, Jakarta
Mario Caramella, Bali Hyatt Hotel, Sanur, Bali
Giordano Faggioli, Ristorante Sami Sami- Ayana Resort, Bali
Francesco Greco, Casa D' Oro Restaurant - Hotel Indonesia Kempinski, Jakarta
Antonio Massagli, Scusa Restaurant - Intercontinental Hotel, Jakarta
Massimo Sacco, Massimo Italian Restaurant, Sanur, Bali
Alessandro Santi, Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta
Bradley Callaghan, TK6 Cafe and Bar, Sapporo
Cristiano Pozzi, La Cucina Restaurant, Roppongi Minato-ku
Maurizio Roberti, Cinque Sensi Kobe Restaurant, Hagoromo-Cho Nishinomiya-City
Andrea Tranchero, Armani Restaurant, Tokyo
Giulio Vierci, Giulio´s Wine Bar Restaurant, Sapporo
Josef Budde, Grand Hyatt Tokyo, Tokyo *
, Ristorante Aurora
in the Altira Macau Hotel
Claudio Cucchiarelli, Sunway Hotel and Resort, Kuala Lumpur
Bonaventura Mansi, Hilton Hotel, Kuala Lumpur
Federico Michieletto, Santini Restaurant, Petaling Jaya
Aira Piva and Chef Leo Velazquez
, Vakarufalhi Island Resort
Luca Marchesi, The Ivy Restaurant, Ulaanbaatar
Marco Anzani, Anzani Restaurant and Bellini Bar, Cebu City, Philippines
Carlo Marengoni, Bologna Restaurant- Marina Mandarin
Lino Sauro, Gattopardo Restaurant, Singapore
• SOUTH KOREA
Sebastiano Giangregorio, Antonio Vinoteca Italian Restaurant, Seoul
Franco Sommariva, Trattoria Jiina & Franco, Seoul
Sergio Zanetti, Toscana Restaurant- Renaissance Hotel, Seoul
• SRI LANKA
Aira Piva and Chef Leo Velazquez, Governor Restaurant
- Mount Lavinia Hotel, Colombo
, Beata Te’ Restaurant
, TaipeiDario Congera
, Danieli´s Restaurant
- Westin Hotel, Taipei
Silvano Amolini, La Trattoria Restaurant- Dusit Thani Laguna, Phuket
Luca Appino, La Bottega di Luca Restaurant, Bangkok
Saulo Bacchilega, Figs Restaurant- Hyatt Regency, Hua Hin
Andreas Bonifacio, La Grappa Restaurant, Hua Hin
Francesco Cantiani, Duilio´s Restaurants, Bangkok
Fabio Colautti, Giusto Restaurant, Bangkok
Antonio Facchinetti, Brio Restaurant- Marriott Resort and Spa, Bangkok
Frederik Farina, Spasso Restaurant- Grand Hyatt Erwan, Bangkok
Gianni Favro, Gianni Restaurant, Bangkok
Luca Mancini, Cucina Restaurant - JW Marriott, Phuket
Flavio Manzoni, Il Tartufo Restaurant, Bangkok
Maurizio Menconi, Ristorante La Scala- Sukhothai Hotel, Bangkok
Gaetano Palumbo, Rossini Restaurant Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit
Gianmaria Zanotti, Zanotti, Vino di Zanotti & Limoncello Restaurants, Bangkok
Giuseppe Zanotti, Felicità Restaurant - Intercontinental Hua Hin Resort
Paolo Alabisio, Six Senses Hideaway - Ninh Van Bay, Nha Trang
Alberto Colombo, Good Morning Vietnam Restaurant, Hoi An
Michele Gulizzi, Opera Restaurant- Park Hyatt Hotel, Saigon
Antonio Demarco, Enzo´s, Adelaide *
Gianmaria Morelli, Palato Gelato, Noosa
Salvatore Pepe, Cibo Espresso, Adelaide
Tom Robinson, Auge´Restaurant, Adelaide *
Tobias Gush, Chianti Classico, Adelaide *
Vincenzo La Montagna, Vincenzo´s Cuccina Vera, Adelaide *
Camillo Crugnale, Assaggio Restaurant, Adelaide *
• NEW ZEALAND
Cristiano de Martin, Hilton Auckland
Paolo Pancotti, Milk&Honey Restaurant, Napier Hawkes Bay
International Day of Italian Cuisines Official Launch In New York City
January 13 & 14, 2010
The International Day of Italian Cuisines of 17th January 2010 will be launched with a world premiere on 14th January to be held at the Italian Culinary Academy (ICA) in New York City. “Due to its history, NYC is the ideal capital of worldwide Italian cuisine,” says Cesare Casella, executive chef of Salumeria Rosi in the Big Apple, leader of the GVCI in USA and more than anything else director of the Italian Culinary Studies of New York International Culinary Institute. Participating in a symbolic collective cooking of tagliatelle in the New York City premiere, will also be Mario Batali, the American chef who, maybe more than any other, has contributed to acquainting the USA with modern oenogastronomic Italy. Batali is a scholar of ragù alla bolognese, having taken his first steps as chef in the city of Bologna and the surrounding province. The evening before, 13th January, also at the ICA of New York City, during a Gala Dinner, the list of the Italian Cuisine Worldwide Awards will be announced, to recognize especific personalities in different countries who have stand out in their dedication in making genuine Italian culinary culture known. The dinner will be prepared by Chicco and Roberto Cerea, chef patrons of Da Vittorio, Brusaporto, Province of Bergamo, recently awarded their third Michelin star, without any doubt, two of Italy’s most prominent chefs.
Wednesday 13 January 2010
|15.00 - 17.00
||INDUSTRY WORKSHOPShort seminars and guided tastings of Italian Food products and wines of excellence
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY
New York, NY 10013-2618
||SHOWCASEItalian Food products of excellence
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY
New York, NY 10013-2618
||IDIC 2010 VIP GALA DINNER Cesare Casella hosts Master Chef: Chicco Cerea (Da Vittorio, Bergamo), newly crowned with 3 Michelin Stars
ITALIAN CUISINE INTERNATIONAL AWARDS- PROCLAMATION
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY´S Restaurant
New York, NY 10013-2618
Cesare Casella's profile
Chicco Cerea's profile
||NEW YORK CHEF´S NIGHT OUT Some of the most talented Italian (and non Italian) chefs in town will meet and celebrate the excellence of Italian food and wine
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY´S Restaurant
New York, NY 10013-2618
Thursday 14 January 2010
|11.00 - 14.30
||WORLDWIDE LAUNCH - PREVIEW International Day of Italian Cuisines 2010 Conference, audiovisual presentation, cooking show, tasting, products showcase
Hosted by Chef Cesare Casella, Dean of the Italian Culinary Academy.
Mario Batali chef, restaurant owner, food writer and TV personality
Chicco Cerea (Da Vittorio, Bergamo, Italy), newly crowned with 3 Michelin Stars
Mario Caramella (Hyatt Sanur Hotel, Bali, Indonesia), GVCI´s President
Rosario Scarpato, food and wine TV producer, International Day of Italian Cuisines Director and GVCI´s Honorary President
Paolo Monti (Gaia,Hong Kong), chef, GVCI´s Moderator, Culinary Supervisor of the Italian Cuisine Asia Summit
Matteo Scibilia, Chef, Counselor of the Italian Minister of Culture for all the issues related to Italian cuisine
Alberto Lupini, Food writer, Italia a Tavola´s Editor
Gianfelice Guerrini (Maranello- Italy) Ferrari Formula 1 Chef
The protagonist of IDIC 2010: Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese
All the chefs invited will cook tagliatelle with Daniele Minarelli, Antica Osteria Bottega, Bologna.
Exhibition by a Sfoglina (traditional fresh pasta maker) from Bologna who will prepare fresh Tagliatelle all’uovo
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY THEATRE
New York, NY 10013-2618
Mario Batali's profile
Mario Caramella's profile
Rosario Scarpato's profile
Paolo Monti's profile
Matteo Scibilia's profile
||SHOWCASEItalian Food products of excellence
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY
New York, NY 10013-2618
|15.00 - 17.00
||COOKING MASTER CLASSGuest Master Chef Chicco Cerea (Da Vittorio, Bergamo, Italy), newly crowned with 3 Michelin Stars
at the ITALIAN CULINARY ACADEMY THEATRE
New York, NY 10013-2618
Sante De Santis and Itchefs-GVCI present:
Stuttgart, Italian Cuisine Capital
Celebrating the Italian Cuisine of Sundays ("Il Pranzo Della Domenica") and Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese
On 17th January 2010 Stuttgart will be the epicentre of the great ola of tagliatelle al ragù. Falling on Sunday, the 2010 IDIC will be a unique opportunity to celebrate the Italian Sunday Lunch, “Il Pranzo della Domenica": that according to the Italian tradition it´s the day reserved for a special meal. These meals deserve an exclusice chapter in the history and life of Italian Cuisines. Sante De Santis, GVCI chef and a true local celebrity, will host three great chefs who are to arrive to interpret the Italian Sunday Lunch from different periods. On 16th January, it will be Donato De Santis’ (Buenos Aires, Argentina) turn and on 17th January, Roland Schuller’s, once chef of the Don Alfonso and today working in Hong Kong. Monday 18th, Marco Sacco of the Piccolo Lago, Verbania, Piedmont, holder of two well-earned Michelin stars, will interpret the Sunday dinner of the future. Stuttgart will have video hook ups with different cities around the world where the ola will be in the midst of celebration, and will be, of course, in connection with Bologna, where a great homage to tagliatelle al ragù will be held.
Saturday 16 January 2010
|10.30 - 12.30
||COOKING MASTER CLASS Chef Roland Schuller from The Drawing Room, Hong Kong
Recipes for Il pranzo della domenica
at SANTE´S KOCHSCHULE
(€ 65,00 - bookings at www.santedesantis.de)
Roland Schuller's profile
||ITALIAN WINES AND TAGLIATELLE AL RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE TASTING Chef Sante De Santis and Guest Chef Elena Ruocco from Rio De Janeiro (Brazil), assisted by Thomas Mühlhaupt, will cook the famous and delicious Italian dish according to the tradition.
Sommellier: Leo Ravaldini.
SB - Großmärkte Esslingen
Elena Ruocco's profile
||GRANDE PRANZO DELLA DOMENICA ITALIANA: as in the old days Chef Konrad Sluga hosts Master Guest Chef Donato De Santis from Buenos Aires (Argentina) who will present some classic dishes of the Italian Sunday presented with a contemporary twist.
at DI GENNARO RISTORANTE
Tel 0711 / 1 68 53-0
4 course menu € 55,00 per p.
(does not include wine and drinks)
For further info and reservations log on to: www.santedesantis.de
Donato De Santis' profile
||TASTING OF ITALIAN PRODUCTS OF EXCELLENCE Exhibition by a Sfoglina (traditional fresh pasta maker) from Bologna who will prepare fresh Tagliatelle all’uovo
Chef Mauro Giancaspro will cook authentic Ragù alla Bolognese
at DI GENNARO FEINKOST UND WEINIMPORT
Tel 0711 / 1 68 53-0
Activity free of charge - For further info and booking log on to: www.santedesantis.de
Sunday 17 January 2010
||EXHIBITION BY A SFOGLINA (TRADITIONAL FRESH PASTA MAKER) FROM BOLOGNA
at RISTORANTE SAN PIETRO - ER CUPPOLONE
||LA TAGLIATELLA AL RAGU BOLOGNESE E IL GRANDE PRANZO DELLA DOMENICA ITALIANA: contmporary style Guest Master Chef: Roland Schuller from The Drawing Room, Hong Kong
Assisted by Roberto Careddu, Chef of Er Cuppolone – San Pietro, and his brigade.
Live Video conference with Bologna (Italy) - Festival delle Tagliatelle al Ragù Bolognese
Live Video conference with restaurants taking part of the global ola of Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese
at RISTORANTE SAN PIETRO - ER CUPPOLONE
Roland Schuller's profile
Monday 18 January 2010
|11.00 - 15.00
||INDUSTRY WORKSHOPS Showcase, tasting and introduction to Italian food and wine of excellence
WINE MASTER CLASS I vini della domenica (Sunday Wines)
at DI GENNARO FEINKOST UND WEINIMPORT
Tel 0711 / 1 68 53-0
IL GRANDE PRANZO DELLA DOMENICA ITALIANA: the future
Guest Master Chef: Marco Sacco, Ristorante Piccolo Lago, Verbania, Italy
at RISTORANTE SAN PIETRO - ER CUPPOLONE
Marco Sacco's profile
Sangiovese di Romagna & Tagliatelle: a terroir driven ideal marriage
Tagliatelle al ragù and red wine (Photo Stefano Calamelli)
What’s the wine to drink with Tagliatelle al Ragù Bolognese? Undoubtedly the best matches are the Italian dry red wines, medium bodied. However, according to the experts of Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna, there is an almost perfect pairing base on the terroir: Sangiovese di Romagna DOC, which has been produced since ancient times in the same region where the dish was born, in the provinces of Bologna, Forli-Cesena, Rimini and Ravenna.
Romagna occupies the south-western sector of the Regione Emilia-Romagna. It is an extremely diverse area extending over about 8,000 km2, from the coastal areas of Rimini and Riccione to east of Bologna. Between the two extremities are gentle hills that yield some of the best –and best-known– wines of the Region.
More wine than water
In past times people in Romagna used to drink more wine than water, as it was hygienically safer, pleasant and energy giving, three characters which made it suitable for the farmers’ hard lifestyle. It isn’t surprising, then, that “e’ bè” (the drink) ended up automatically referring to it and that wine is present in many proverbs and traditions, like that of pouring a glass of wine under a vine-tree on Christmas morning, in order to encourage grape production in the following year.
Sangiovese di Romagna is without doubt the king of Romagnan wines: some even say it reflects the nature of Romagnan people: frank, outgoing, hospitable, sometimes rough but sincere and delicate inside. Just think about Federico Fellini’s characters in the movie that best represents Romagna, Amarcord: at once cunning and naïve, sexi and unsophisticated; in a word genuine people. Fellini’s attachment to this wine is stated in this same movie: “What a great Sangiovese!”, and he himself always paired his favourite food (cappelletti, tagliatelle and passatelli) at Rimini’s Grand Hotel with Sangiovese for a red wine. Another real Romagnan, Fellini’s scriptwriter Tonino Guerra, has always shown his attachment to Sangiovese di Romagna, to the point that he in the past he even accepted to be a testimonial for it.
Romagna disputes with neighbouring Tuscany over the origin of Sangiovese. Whatever its origin, in the Romagna sub-region Sangiovese found the ideal soil and climate to develop and spread, marking the most suitable terroirs to the point that some towns, like Predappio, even display a Sangiovese grape bunch on their coat of arms.
Where the name comes from
Various stories tell how Sangiovese got this name. Some relate it to the fact that this vine sprouts early, around the second half of June, identified with San Giovanni’s celebration. Others think the name comes from Mount Giovo, upon which rests the town of Santarcangelo di Romagna. Also the most fascinating story about Sangiovese’s name is set in Santarcangelo. As the story goes, during a banquet at a Franciscan Monastery this wine was served some illustrious guests, who appreciated it so much that they asked which wine it was. Nobody had given it a name yet, but a witty monk immediatly answered that the name was “Sanguis Jovis”, Jupiter’s blood, hence the name Sangiovese.
In the last thirty years, the new generation of wine producers has brought in new technologies and vinification and grape farming techniques, taking the quality and character of Romagnan wines, especially Sangiovese di Romagna, to unprecedented levels. As the journalist Andreas Marz put it: “I think I can point out that, compared to Tuscans, these wines are a little more round, fuller. Maybe their acitidy is lower, and their tannins are sweeter. I’d almost bet that a blind tasting between the best ten Sangiovese di Romagna and the best ten Sangiovese-based Supertuscans victory of Romagnan wines.” Nowadays, this is widely known to the experts and that is happening increasingly often in oenologic contests and events.
The Sangiovese di Romagna appellation, established in 1967, holds four subdivisions: Sangiovese di Romagna Novello, Sangiovese di Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore and Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva."Superiore" indicates that the grapes are grown to the south of the Via Emilia, and in any case, that the wine's alcohol content is not less than 12,5 Vol%. When the word "Riserva" is added, it means that the wine is aged for at least two years, unlike the Superiore, which can be released on April 1 of the year following the harvest. The “novello” type is to be drunk very young and has a minimum alcohol content of 11,5 degrees. It is to be obtained from at least 50% of wine produced by carbonic maceration.
Sangiovese di Romagna characteristics
The characteristics of the wines of this DOC, which must consist of at least 85% Sangiovese, are ruby red color with violet reflections, floral bouquet with violet and blackberry accents, dry, balanced palate, and silky tannins. These wines display a distinctive balance between elegance and structure, a balance that makes them top quality wines capable of aging at length in the cellar. Served at 18 °C it perfectly matches egg pastas with ragu, white meat roasts as well as boiled meat and grilled. 173 wineries produce this renowned wine, and many, which enjoy both critical and commercial success, are also exported.
The International Day of Italian Cuisines: why 17th January?
January 17 is a date of great symbolic importance. It’s the day of the catholic feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, one of the most popular saints of Italy, the patron of domestic animals, but also of butchers and salami makers. On this day, according to tradition, the Italian Carnival begins, that period of the year during which, since unmemorable time, it’s “licet insanire,” transgressions are tolerated and good, rich food is celebrated and, along with this: cooking.
The cult of Saint Anthony “of January”, who was a hermit who lived in Egypt in the 13th century, is rooted in earlier pagan feasts, le sementine (that celebrates the end of the sowing season) of ancient Rome in honour of Ceres, the Goddess of the Earth.
The sacred and the profane as well as Celtic and Latin rites are mixed together here. Therefore this occasion is celebrated in Italy, from north to south, on January 17th in many different ways. The devotion to the saint is very strong in Pinerolo, in the Province of Turin, in the Province of Como, in Lombardy and in Emilia Romagna.
On the other hand, in the south on that evening “fires” are lit, “focaroni,” “focarazzi” or “focaracci” – bonfires, people congregate in crowds around these pyres to give hommage to the saint who, according to legend, banished the devil and took dominion of the fires of hell. This is what is done in Puglia, Sardinia, Campania e Abruzzo.
In the latter, in the town of Scanno this feast has been celebrated since the fourteenth century until recently with great, steaming pans of sagna (home made pasta) and ricotta in the town square, while in Lanciano a holy representation was held. Also in Lazio, especially in the towns of Nepi and Velletri, in the area of Tuscia, the feast still has strong gastronomic characteristics. In general, almost all the celebrations of 17th January ended with a collection of food products that the entire community then consumed collectively.
Elsewhere, in Guastalla in Emilia Romagna, the fried gnocco (gnocco fritto) is the king of the feast. Saint Antonio has always been represented by a suckling pig (by a wild boar in Celtic countries) whose meat was the most highly esteamed ingredient of a meal at the Italian peasant’s table. Once, many rural communities collectively raised a piglet that they then butchered and ate on that day. Ancient fairs, such as that of Lonato, in Lombardy, that used to be held on 17th January but today have fallen out of use, were completely a celebration of cooking and eating of pork, of which in peasant tradition, as it is of common knowledge, nothing went to waste.